Welcome to Trainer Tuesday! Each week we ask trainers a question and gather their answers for you. These trainers have a range of experience, backgrounds, and focus points of their programs, so the answers have as much variation as you would expect and also probably much more similarity.
This week’s question posed is: For a horse who often reacts by getting behind the bit, maybe one that seems to have been excessively ridden in draw reins in their past, how would you train that horse towards relaxation and acceptance of the bit?
Here are their answers:
“Going forward fixes all problems — especially this one!” -Nora Thomas
Listen to Nora on the Plaidcast here.
“The first step to improve a horse in this situation is to ensure that the horse understands, and reacts to, the forward driving aids. Lack of reactivity to the forward driving aids is the most dangerous aspect in any training circumstance, and going “behind the bit” can be a natural resistance to moving forward, not just the result of poor training methods. If reaction to the forward driving aids is confirmed, but hiding “behind the bit” continues, the next step would be to ensure the horse does not have a physical or dental issue that needs to be addressed.
Once all of this is taken into account, the work to improve the seeking reflexes can begin. We start this process on the lunge line (using either a lunging cavesson or bridle with a well fitted and gentle bit) encouraging lateral and longitudinal suppleness by spiraling in and out and rewarding with release of pressure when the horse looks to stretch forward and downward. Every horse that has ever come to us for training that was used to going in a restricted or hyper-flexed frame responds to this training with EXTREME stretching forward & downward— this must be allowed as it is a part of the critical physical & mental rehabilitation process for the animal.
What must be understood before looking to undo damage caused by riding in draw reins, lunging in “bitting rigs” or other use of leverage devices (including overly restrictive riders’ hands) is that THEY CAN ALL CAUSE PERMANENT DAMAGE that no amount of training or rehab can completely cure. While almost all horses can recover at least partially, horses who have been on the receiving end of unfair training methods must be allowed forever more, to go in the way that is most comfortable to them based on the degree of damage that has been done to their mind and body at no fault of their own.
What is better than learning ways to improve horses that have suffered due to bad training? Learn correct training from the beginning. This is not easy to come by today, but is absolutely imperative for the welfare of horses, and the future of horse sport in general. There is an ever increasing amount of information available for low or no cost, and the most important investment you will ever make in your equestrian future – especially the future of any of your current of future equine partners – is the time you take to learn the true tenets of classical Dressage; i.e. how to correctly train horses to become lifelong happy partners with you, or whomever you pass them to after your time with them is through.” -McKrell Baier
Read more Trainer Tuesday responses from McKrell here.
“When your horse is always behind the bit, you have to “ride its neck out”. First of all, ride the horse forward. Most horses who are behind the bit are equally behind the leg. Ride the horse forward starting at the walk. Keep a soft rein that has you feeling the bit but not asking the horse to come on the bit. A horse behind the bit is used to a lot of the wrong or too much contact. As you walk with a lot of leg, give on the reins and the horse will stretch their neck out to find it. Feel the bit again and then release until they will go forward with their neck stretched out in front of them like a hunter.
You can do the same at the trot and canter, and even get to where the horse will trot with their nose just above the ground, stretching out and down. Once they’re comfortable with a longer neck, you can gradually use your leg to get them to take a hold, but still keep their neck stretched in front of them.” -Robin Greenwood
Read more from Robin and listen to her on the Plaidcast here.
“The first thing I would do is go to a softer bit. In most cases when a horse gets behind the bit, they are fearful of the connection. By using a softer bit, it can allow the horse to be less defensive and more willing to be connected from the hind end into your hand.
I want the horses that I ride to want to take my hand and engage their hind end. If the horse is afraid of the bit that you are using, they are going to avoid making contact with it thus making it harder to get the correct connection and balance.” -Colleen Brombach
“My recommendation would be to start with a good chiropractor or bodywork person. I find many of the horses ridden incorrectly and/or excessively in draw reins feel very “stuck” in their mouths, necks, and backs. If you want to encourage them to seek contact in the bridle and use their backs properly then you need to enable their “swing”. That starts by coaxing their musculature to move in a more naturally supple manner.” -Emily Belin
Listen to Emily on the Plaidcast here.
“I have a few approaches for horses like this. First, I often like to change their bit and put them into something that is very soft and friendly, so that they feel like they have something they can hold onto or move forward into. Some examples are a Trust Innosense, or Nathe Bit; or a leather bit; or a nice, fat, hollow French link loose ring snaffle.
Then, I work with them on the ground in long lines and/or on the lunge line and try to reteach them how to move forward into the connection. A lot of times, horses who are behind the bit are also behind the leg, so ensuring they move off the leg promptly and correctly is important in fixing the habit. This can begin to be achieved through groundwork, where the horse can learn on their own without the weight and interference of a rider.
Once they are more comfortable reaching out into the connection and coming through with the hind leg on the ground, then the idea continues in the saddle. I try not to be too restrictive initially, and ride them on a lighter contact until the hind end is working up, then gently reintroduce contact. Any time they drop behind the bit I will soften my hand and encourage them up and out again.
If that doesn’t work, I’ve also ridden a few horses who have really curled under in a super, super, short rein with a high headset, but with my hands very far up their neck near their ears so as to not restrict their mouth, I’m encouraging their nose up and out (think arms almost straight out in front of you). Doing this as a fix for a few days to week, or a few weeks, to help them unlearn the habit and strengthen weak muscles so they are better able to hold the correct contact later on. It also tips them onto their hind end so they are in better balance. This tends to work well for horses who are too forward and strong (as opposed to those who are behind the leg).” -Jessica Goldstein Holmes
Read more Trainer Tuesday responses from Jessica here.
“Firstly, I would get the horse to accept carrying itself in front of leg, with no contact of the reins for however long that takes, regardless of how silly you look. Get them to maintain a rhythm with the least amount of help from the leg, so you’re able to ride the hind end with cues from your leg. Then I would introduce lateral work at the trot and encourage the horse to work on a long-to-medium contact and practice changing direction; all the while maintaining an even rhythm so the horse relies on the leg and the contact to tell them how fast or slow to go. This will make it very obvious if the horse is behind the bit and fast or above the vertical and behind leg. They’ll find that being between the aids and on a rhythm is the easiest place to be (When they reach that point, scratch them, or tell them “good boy” or “girl”).
Then you’ll introduce the concept in the canter, and if they get disconnected or fast, you just add transitions so the horse feels your connection to know what the rhythm should be. The key is twice the amount of leg than you have contact with the bit. This can take a couple weeks to fix, and for some horses it’s taken me 6 months to have consistent communication from hand to leg depending on how messed up they are. When they get scared or stressed they’ll revert back to being behind the bridle, so don’t be hard on them. It’s evasion because someone uneducated has ridden them, it’s not their fault.
At the end of the day you want to be able to get the horse to lift in its top line, engage the hindquarters, and have soft contact from your elbow to the bit. To achieve this, patience and being kind are important because horses are our partners, and we have to get them to want to understand what we’re saying. And don’t drill it; work on it a bit, and also mix in things they’re good at. Confident horses feel safe and learn faster. Sometimes you have to boost their ego to get them keen on listening to you.” -Nick Latina
“In my experience, I have found that bit choice can be a tremendous help with this issue. Depending on how strong the horse gets, I would choose between riding the horse in a Nathe (a straight, soft, flexible bit), a Mullen mouth (a straight bar ridged bit), or a straight rubber bit with little to no flexibility. Additionally, I would keep my flatwork simple for a while; encouraging lots of long and low work, and allowing the horse to be independent after being micromanaged by a draw rein. This involves plenty of forward movement while maintaining loose contact. Slowly, I would introduce collection with wide hands.
I have also worked with horses while their junior or amateur riders were still riding them. In these situations, I would add a pool noodle or a styrofoam pipe insulator, cut to length, between the donut of the martingale and the noseband — obviously, not too long as to inhibit the horse from bending its neck. This tool is helpful when working with horses that tend to get too curled up, while also teaching the rider to allow for looser contact. The goal is to teach the horse how to carry itself so it no longer relies on artificial aids.” -Shane Powell
“I often pay attention to neck level. I think each horse has to use their neck for balance and jump in a way that is unique to them. The goal is to have a softer bit and have the horse want to look to your hand for guidance. As riders we tend to focus on the mouth only and not the neck. If your hand and leg aren’t able to direct the flow of movement upward and be light, then it’s time for a different method. If you can achieve that, then muscle memory starts to build and it becomes easier for a horse to stabilize in their movement. The result is a horse that’s lighter and more uphill.” -Jessica Dalton
“I find draw reins can be very beneficial in training on occasions, but not to be used tightly or excessively. You have to have very educated hands when using them. They can be used to help with relaxation when put on loosely, and with reward, or they can become one of the most harmful tools when paired with big sharp bits, strong hands, and over-flexion.
The very first thing I would do is evaluate how sensitive the horse is to pressure from my hand, and, most importantly, I would switch them to a very mild bit – such as a rubber D-ring, a thick, smooth plain snaffle, or potentially a bit-less bridle – to give them a chance to reach out and stretch their neck. Colleen McQuay once taught me while riding her horses to always ride them in as little bit as possible, that way, we can connect with the horse and feel them without offending them and/or causing cuts or inflammation in their mouth. After all, we are like dance partners, and without a clear connection, it’s hard to accomplish anything. Once I choose which set-up is best for the horse, I start by encouraging natural balance and carriage. I like to start out on a very long rein without any pressure, then over time add more connection/feel as the horse learns to stretch and trust that my hands won’t offend them. In extreme cases, I like to do ground work and lunge them in a big round pen, so they can learn their own balance and to relax.
I find that riding those horses in big open fields, doing hill work, riding over to the farm animals/zoo, trail rides, etc., helps with the relaxation and gives them the freedom to stretch out their head and necks comfortably.
We as equestrians have to be the voice for these incredible animals. We have to do so by just listening to their body language, knowing the way they track at all gaits, and creating a trustworthy relationship with them. Once you are able to do that, the sky’s the limit.” -Ryan May
